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Booking Campgrounds in Torres del Paine: Everything You Need to Know for 2023/2024

It’s fair to say that the W and O Circuit treks through Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia have quickly become some of the continent’s most sought-after hikes.

However, this new-found popularity (with visitor numbers having reached a quarter of a million in the last year alone) has resulted in huge difficulties for prospective visitors.

This has had a knock-on effect on those trying to book camping in Torres del Paine National Park.

As someone who has hiked both the W and the O Circuit, I’ve been through the process of making Torres del Paine camping reservations. I’ve also been confused by the fact that there are not one, not two but three companies through whom you potentially have to book for hiking either of the two routes.

Unfortunately, to complicate matters even more, the camping spots in Torres del Paine get booked up very, very fast. Reservations for the 2023/2024 season are now open.

Visitors are starting to make reservations earlier and earlier each year, meaning less availability for those starting the process later in the year. As a result, the whole process can feel very, very frustrating.

A tent pitched at Camping Dickinson along the O Circuit and information on how to make camping reservations in Torres del Paine National Park Patagonia

That’s why I’ve written this guide to making camping reservations in Torres del Paine, with added hints and tips from my two visits to the park and the extra information I’ve acquired from conversations with the two companies who offer accommodation.

What previous clients have said:

Steph’s help laying out an itinerary for Chile was huge toward us having a great trip.  She listened to our interests and compiled a framework that we could follow to make our plans.  She included many practical tips as well as numerous options. She truly saved us many, many hours of research.


Jeff Mullens
Traveled to Chile and Patagonia June 2022

IMPORTANT NOTE: Las Torres (formerly known as Fantastico Sur) and Vertice Patagonia are now open for reservations for the 2023/2024 season.

The free, CONAF campsites are closed this season (2023/2024) for repairs. If they are open for the 2023/2024 season, you should be able to make reservations here.

If you want to save time, the website Torres Hike can show you the availability of accommodation and allows you to book it directly through them, rather than having to go via the Vertice Patagonia and Las Torres (previously known as Fantastico Sur) websites. All you need to do is plug in your dates and it’ll show you which campgrounds and refugios are available – saving you LOTS of time. You can then book directly with them, rather than having to try and book through the other websites!

FAQs about camping in Torres del Paine National Park

No. Camping is only allowed in authorized campgrounds within the national parks. This is to limit the environmental impact of campers and also to prevent the likelihood of fires, with historic blazes devastating some 17,000 hectares (41,000 acres) or 7% of the national park.

There are either official campgrounds along the W and O Circuit (plus three additional campgrounds operated by the national park agency, CONAF, that are closed indefinitely). There are also a handful of other campgrounds located within the national park, including Camping Pehoé. Camping outside of authorized campgrounds in Torres del Paine can see you be fined and thrown out of the park.

No, but you must buy your entry ticket in advance (here) and, if planning on hiking the W Trek or the O Circuit, you must have booked your campground reservations in advance.

You can certainly visit the park without camping! Various hotels located within and just outside the national park provide more comfort for those wishing to avoid camping (you can find our hotel recommendations for Torres del Paine here) – although you will need to rent a car to explore the park. Read more about visiting Torres del Paine National Park without doing a multi-day hike

You can even do the full W Trek without staying in a tent; instead, you can book dorm accommodation at each of the refugios en route. Refer to the information above to help you do this!

What are the names of the different Torres del Paine campsites and who owns them?

The first and possibly the most confusing feature of making refugio and campsite reservations for Torres del Paine is the fact that there are two companies who have accommodation in the park and you will need to book at least one campsite with each.

The two main companies are Las Torres (formerly Fantastico Sur) and Vertice Patagonia. Additionally, there is CONAF, which is the quasi-governmental body that administers the park, but that also has three free campsites in Torres del Paine – although these are closed for the foreseeable.

Ok, that’s all clear. But which campgrounds belong to which company and which ones do you need to book?

Camping reservations for the W trek, Torres del Paine

Los Cuernos as seen from the road into Torres del Paine National Park from the south
Torres del Paine National Park is one of Patagonia’s most unmissable travel destinations.

There are two different ways that you can hike the W, depending on whether you start at the western corner of the trek and hike east or at the eastern corner of the trek and hike west.

Most of the buses that leave from Puerto Natales enter through the same place, via the hamlet of Torres del Paine and stop:

  • Firstly at Laguna Amarga (where you get off for the O Circuit or if you plan on hiking the W trek from the east)
  • Secondly, at the Pehoé catamaran stop (where you get off if you plan on hiking the W from the west)
  • Continuing to Administración (the main headquarters of the park and not really useful for starting any hikes).
  • Some services (namely those with Bus Sur) continue to Camping Pehoé (a campground six kilometers south of the Pehoe catamaran stop) and Hotel Lago Grey, for the boat to Glacier Grey and Campamento Grey, where you can go kayaking and ice trekking.

Everyone, regardless of where you plan to start the trek, generally gets off the bus at Laguna Amarga to show their entrance tickets for the park – you now need to book these in advance here or through Torres Hike if you choose to make your camping reservations that way. Make sure you have downloaded a copy of your ticket to your phone as you won’t have service in the park.

From 2020*, Bus Sur started offering services that actually enter through the south of the park:

  • Starting at Administración
  • Continuing to Pehoé
  • And finishing at Laguna Amarga.

On this route, people pay their entrance tickets at Administración.

This service is good if you plan on hiking the W trek from west to east or are wanting to visit Glaciar Grey or Valle Francés as part of a day hike in Torres del Paine National Park.

For both, you need to bring enough Chilean pesos: $44,000 CLP ($49 USD) for adults and $27,000 CLP ($30 USD) for children if you plan on spending more than three days in the park; or $32,000 CLP for adults ($35 USD) and $15,000 CLP ($17 USD) for children if you plan on spending less than three days in the park. Cards are not accepted.

*These are currently suspended. I will update when they have been reintroduced.

On the W trek, accommodation is either at a campground (either with your own tent or with a tent that you can rent in advance from the campground) or at a refugio (normally a bed in a shared dorm).

As of the 2023/2024 season, at all of the campgrounds (except Campamento Francés, which only offers a box lunch), you can pay for full-board (breakfast, a packed lunch, and dinner), half-board (breakfast and dinner) or no food (you bring all your food and cooking equipment).

If you’re planning on camping and self-catering, I’ve written all about the equipment you need to pack for the O Circuit (which can be easily adapted for the W trek) and about the food you should take to Torres del Paine so that your rucksack isn’t overly heavy.

Which months can you trek the W?

The W trek is open year-round, and you can hike it without a tour guide and alone from October through April.

From May 1 through to the beginning of September, you will need an official guide to be able to hike the trail. Solo travelers are not permitted into the park to do this trek during these months and you will be fined if caught.

Winter offers a really unique chance to see the national park, particularly as there are far fewer other hikers and it’s more often than not covered in snow – the weather can also be better than in summer, as it’s less windy and the weather can be more settled.

In winter, rather than camping, you will be staying in the Torres del Paine refugios as it can get a little cold.

I recommend checking out Chile Nativo, who operate a winter tour of Torres del Paine National Park. You can expect to pay upwards of $1,900 USD p/p for a two-person tour (They offer Worldly Adventurer readers a 5% discount if you add “Worldly Adventurer” to the referral discount box when you book!)

I re-visited the park in September 2022 and was surprised by how calm the weather was: we only experienced a little bit of rain and snow and had bluebird skies for much of the time!

The W trek starting from the west

Most people start the W trek from the west. This involves:

  • Taking the limited Bus Sur service from Puerto Natales at 6.30am to reach the catamaran stop at 8.45am.* Note: This bus is not running currently in 2022. The earliest departure is now at 7am and arrives at the Pudeto ferry stop at 10am.
  • Boarding the catamaran at 9am to sail the 25-minute journey across Lago Pehoe. This service is operated by Hielos Patagonicos with departures leaving Pudeto (where the bus drops you) for Paine Grande across the lake at 9am, 11am and 6pm (November through March) with an extra departure at 4.15pm between December and March (Note services drop down to one or two during the rest of the year. Their website has up-to-date timings, which are too complicated to list out here) ($27,000 CLP ($30 USD) one-way, cash only). Tickets cannot be reserved in advance; you buy them at the ferry port.
  • Starting the W trek from Refugio and Camping Paine Grande.

* If there is no space on this service, you can take the 7.30am service that drops you at Pudeto at 10.45am for the 11am catamaran. See this post for full information.

Map of Torres del Paine W Trek
The route of the W trek, with the different available campsites labelled. Click to zoom in.

This route means you hike to viewpoints of Glacier Grey on day one and on day three or four hike up to the towers, before returning to Puerto Natales.

From the west, the campgrounds along the W trek are as follows, ordered by when you’ll reach them (although you will only stay at three or four of them):

  1. Refugio and Camping Paine Grande (paid campsite and refugio owned by Vertice Patagonia)
  2. Refugio and Camping Grey (paid campsite and refugio owned by Vertice Patagonia)
  3. Camping Italiano (free campsite owned by CONAF)*
  4. Camping and Domes Francés (paid campsite and domes owned by Las Torres)
  5. Refugio and Camping Los Cuernos (paid campsite and refugio owned by Las Torres)
  6. Refugio and Camping Torres Central/Norte (paid campsite and refugio owned by Las Torres)
  7. Refugio and Camping El Chileno (paid campsite and refugio owned by Las Torres)
  8. Camping Torres (free campsite owned by CONAF)*

As you can see, at some point, you will likely need to book with all three of the companies. We will go into that in a moment.

*Both CONAF campgrounds are closed for the foreseeable future.

The W trek starting from the east

Although it is less common, you can also start the W from the east.

This involves getting off the bus at Laguna Amarga stop (buses leave Puerto Natales at 7am and arrive here at 9am), walking or taking the 15-minute shuttle minibus ($5,000 CLP ($6 USD)) operated by Hotel Las Torres to Refugio and Camping Torres Central/Norte (I’m not sure of the exact timetable of this bus, but it should connect with the buses arriving at Laguna Amarga).

This route means you hike up to the towers on day one and to the viewpoints of Glacier Grey on day three or four of the hike, before returning to Puerto Natales.

Torres del Paine map, W trek going east
The route of the W trek, with the different available campsites labelled. Click to zoom in.

From the east, the campgrounds along the W trek are as follows, ordered by when you’ll reach them (although you will only stay at three or four of them):

  1. Refugio and Camping Torres Central/Norte (paid campsite and refugio owned by Las Torres)
  2. Refugio and Camping El Chileno (paid campsite and refugio owned by Las Torres)
  3. Camping Torres (free campsite owned by CONAF)*
  4. Refugio and Camping Los Cuernos (paid campsite and refugio owned by Las Torres)
  5. Camping and Domos Francés (paid campsite and domes owned by Las Torres)
  6. Camping Italiano (free campsite owned by CONAF)*
  7. Refugio and Camping Paine Grande (paid campsite and refugio owned by Vertice Patagonia)
  8. Refugio and Camping Grey (paid campsite and refugio owned by Vertice Patagonia)

*Both CONAF campgrounds are closed for the foreseeable future.

Hiking the W from west to east or from east to west

Ultimately, it doesn’t matter which direction you hike the W, particularly as both of the “arms” of the W, where you head into Valle Frances (for the Mirador Francés and Mirador Britanico) and Valle Ascencio, involve you walking there and back along the same path.

On the sections in between, you’ll find that hiking from east to west, i.e. against the traffic, can potentially be annoying as you’ll be coming up against groups of people hiking in the opposite direction; as the path is not very wide, you’ll probably spend a lot of time waiting for people to pass.

If you hike west to east, i.e. with the traffic, you can find yourself getting stuck behind lots of other hikers and struggling to overtake them if you want to go faster.

Moon Chile guidebook

How to make Torres del Paine camping reservations for the W trek

I’m going to refer to booking campsites from west to east as this is the route you will likely take.

If you plan on hiking the W in the other direction, it’s easy enough to just follow this process backward (or drop me a comment at the end of this post and I’ll explain in more detail).

Organizing your Torres del Paine National Park camping and refugio reservations isn’t too complicated but does require some explanation.

Let’s go through each of the campsites on the W and how you can reserve your campsites in Torres del Paine with each company.

You’ll also find this article about planning and hiking the W trek without a guide very useful.

If you want to save time: The website Torres Hike shows you the availability of accommodation and allows you to book it directly through them, rather than having to go via the Vertice Patagonia, Las Torres and CONAF websites. All you need to do is plug in your dates and it’ll show you which campgrounds and refugios are available – saving you LOTS of time. You can then book directly with Torres Hike rather than with both companies.

Vertice Patagonia: Paine Grande and Grey

Bookings for the 2023/2024 season are now open.

To make a Torres del Paine camping reservation or to book a dorm reservation in a refugio with Vertice Patagonia you need to follow this link to the booking page on their website. The cheapest is a bed in a dorm room for $59 USD; this requires you to bring your own sleeping bag.

To book, firstly, you need to select “Another” or “Otro” in the Passenger/Pasajero section of the first booking window and select USD (because you are a foreigner and not a Chilean resident). Then, you need to select “Circuito W” on the second window.

This then gets you to choose whether you want to book Refugio and Camping Grey followed by Refugio and Camping Paine Grande, Refugio, and Camping Paine Grande followed by Refugio and Camping Grey or either one or the other.

If you have any issues with booking your spot in a refugio or in the camping, the first thing to do is contact Vertice Patagonia.

You can do so directly via here.

I have heard they are reasonably quick to get back to you and speak English.

If you’re already in Patagonia and have had issues with your booking, you can go directly to their office in Puerto Natales located at: Bulnes 100 (tel. 61/241 4500).

Rates 2022/2023 for camping and dining at Vertice Patagonia campgrounds

In most of the campgrounds at Vertice Patagonia, you can choose between camping (with your own equipment or rented from them) and a bed in a dorm room, and self-catering or going B&B/half board or full board.

Rates for camping and dining at Camping and Refugio Paine Grande:

Cost of staying in a refugio in Camping and Refugio Paine Grande, Torres del Paine National Park 2022/2023
Prices for camping and camping equipment rental in Refugio and Camping Paine Grande, Torres del Paine National Park 2022-2023
Cost of full-board, half-board and meals in Camping and Refugio Paine Grande, Torres del Paine National Park 2021/2023

All of the other campsites operated by Vertice Patagonia (Dickson, Los Perros and Grey) charge the following rates for camping and dining, with Dickson and Grey also offering shared mixed dorms:

Cost of staying in a refugio in Camping and Refugio Grey, Torres del Paine National Park 2022/2023
Prices for camping and camping equipment rental in Refugio y Camping Grey, Torres del Paine National Park 2022-2023
Cost of full-board, half-board and meals in Camping and Refugio Grey, Torres del Paine National Park 2022/2023

Bear in mind that the prices in USD are those that you pay as a foreigner traveling to Chile and are what you should be charged on the respective websites.

You may need to show your passport and the migration ticket from PDI that you received when you arrived in the country at the campsites/refugios to prove you are a tourist.

Refugio and Camping Paine Grande

  • Cost for camping with own equipment p/p: $12 USD
  • Cost for camping with rented equipment p/p (based on two sharing): $60 USD (additional $16 USD if single occupancy)
  • Cost for dorm in refugio p/p with your own sleeping bag: $59 USD
  • Cost for dorm in refugio p/p without your own sleeping bag: $92 USD
  • Cost for dorm in refugio (with your own sleeping bag) and half-board p/p: $97 USD
  • Cost for dorm in refugio (with your own sleeping bag) and full-board p/p: $120 USD
  • Cost for double room in refugio with your own sleeping bag (based on two sharing): $55 USD
  • Cost for half board: $38 USD
  • Cost for full board: $61 USD

Get information about the refugio and camping at Paine Grande.

The campsite at Refugio and Camping Paine Grande, Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia
Refugio and Camping Paine Grande has one of the largest campsites in the park

Most people will spend their first night in Torres del Paine National Park camping or staying in the refugio at Paine Grande.

It is located just next to where the catamaran ferry that crosses Lago Pehoe arrives and is a useful campsite as it’s big (and so normally has space) and you can get off the ferry, set up your tent and then leave your big rucksack as you hike to the Glacier Grey viewpoints for the day.

You can then return back to the campground at night.

When camping here, you’ll notice that most people try and camp alongside the bottom of the mountain that edges the campground: this provides some protection from the wind and is a good idea!

The camping facilities at Paine Grande are really good:

  • Large mess hall with tables where you can cook food and sinks for washing up
  • Plug sockets in the mess hall
  • Hot showers (only for a couple of hours in the evening so aim to queue up a bit before they open)
  • A large canteen (you pay for food when you make your camping reservation)
  • A bar
  • A shop with basics such as biscuits, eggs, chocolates and crisps and occasionally bread

The refugio facilities at Paine Grande include:

  • Beds in shared dorm rooms with or without bed clothes (you pay $33 USD less if you take your own sleeping bag)
  • A large canteen (you pay for food when you make your dormitory reservation)
  • A bar
  • WIFI (you must have Paypal to pay for it)

Refugio and Camping Grey

The main viewpoints across Glacier Grey, just a little further along the trail from the Refugio and Camping Grey, Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia.
The main viewpoints across Glacier Grey, just a little further along the trail from the Refugio and Camping Grey.
  • Cost for camping with own equipment p/p: $10 USD
  • Cost for camping with rented equipment p/p (based on two sharing): $58 USD (additional $16 USD if single occupancy)
  • Cost for dorm in refugio with your own sleeping bag: $40 USD
  • Cost for dorm in refugio without your own sleeping bag: $92 USD
  • Cost for dorm in refugio (with your own sleeping bag) and half-board: $78 USD
  • Cost for dorm in refugio (with your own sleeping bag) and full-board: $101 USD
  • Cost for half board: $38 USD
  • Cost for full board: $61 USD

Find more information about the refugio and camping at Grey.

Many people stay at Grey on the first night of their trek, instead of at Paine Grande.

Grey is a good campground if you plan on hiking to the further viewpoints of the Grey Glacier.

The W actually finishes at the viewpoint shortly after this campground; the path that continues is the O Circuit and, if you’re a fast hiker, you can follow it all the way to Camping Paso (18km away).

Otherwise, you can hike about an hour and a half from Refugio and Camping Grey to reach two suspension bridges over river gorges, from where you’ll get great views too.

Grey is smaller than Paine Grande and so is more likely to be booked up. If you find that they don’t have space on your date, it’s worth instead checking if there is availability at Paine Grande and staying there instead.

The camping facilities at Grey are good:

  • Cooking area with tables where you can cook food and sinks for washing up
  • Hot showers (only for a couple of hours in the evening so aim to queue up a bit before they open)
  • A canteen (you pay for food when you make your camping reservation)
  • A bar
  • A shop with food basics

The refugio facilities at Grey include:

  • Beds in shared dorm rooms with or without a sleeping bag
  • A large canteen (you pay for food when you make your dormitory reservation)
  • A bar
  • Computers with internet connection (additional fee)

CONAF: Italiano

To book campsite Italiano through CONAF, you need to use this link*.

Their online booking system is now much easier than it was for last season.

You just need to click on the above link, put in your dates (you will need to do this twice if you want to book more than one campsite with CONAF) and it will show availability and allow you to insert your details to make the reservation. It’s all in English, too!

*CONAF campsites are closed for the foreseeable.

Camping Italiano

A drawbridge across the river leading to Campamento Italiano in Torres del Paine National Park, one of the free campgrounds you can reserve in the park
The hanging bridge leading up to Camping Italiano (it’s in those trees!).
  • Cost for camping with own equipment p/p: Free*

The free Italiano campsite is generally a place to stop on the second day of the W trek in Torres del Paine as it is located just below the trail that leads up to Mirador Francés and Mirador Britanico, both lookouts across a glacier-strewn valley.

Many people also use this campground as a place to leave their backpacks when they hike up the lookouts (you can leave them for free with the ranger who is based at this campsite and then pick them back up when you come back down).

The facilities at this campground are very poor, mainly because it’s free. There is:

  • A small shelter with benches for cooking
  • Drinking water
  • A sink for washing dishes
  • Two toilets

This campground floods when it rains and the toilets are really quite unpleasant.

Although it’s an option if you’re on an extreme budget, I would strongly recommend that you continue on to Francés or Los Cuernos, instead of camping at Italiano.

*CONAF campsites are closed for the foreseeable future.

Las Torres: Francés, Los Cuernos, Torres Central and El Chileno

To make a Torres del Paine camping reservation or to book a dorm reservation in a refugio with Las Torres you need to follow this link to the booking page on their website.

Las Torres are pretty good at getting back to queries and I’ve also found that they are very fast at responding through the chat box option on their website.

If you’re struggling to make reservations, you can also contact them via email at
[email protected]. They speak good English, too.

They also have an office in Puerto Natales located at: Manuel Bulnes 83, Puerto Natales (tel. 61/2614 184).

Rates 2022/2023 for dorm accommodation, camping, and dining at Las Torres’ campgrounds:

Prices for staying in dorm accommodation and dining at Las Torres campgrounds across Torres del Paine National Park, 2022/2023
Prices for camping at Las Torres campgrounds across Torres del Paine National Park, 2022/2023
Prices for camping and dining at Las Torres campgrounds across Torres del Paine National Park, 2022/2023
Prices for camping and dining at Las Torres campgrounds across Torres del Paine National Park, 2022/2023

Bear in mind that the prices in USD are those that you pay as a foreigner traveling to Chile and are what you should be charged on the respective websites.

You may need to show your passport and the migration ticket from PDI that you received when you arrived in the country at the campsites/refugios to prove you are a tourist.

Domos and Camping Francés

  • Cost for camping with own equipment p/p: $25 USD plus an additional $12 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for camping with rented equipment p/p: $70 USD plus an additional $12 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for premium camping with rented equipment p/p: $100 USD plus an additional $20 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for dorm in dome p/p: $125 USD
  • Cost for dorm in dome and half-board p/p: $187 USD
  • Cost for dorm in dome and full-board p/p: $213 USD
  • Cost for half board: $62 USD
  • Cost for full board: $88 USD

Information about the refugio and camping at Francés.

Most people stay at Francés on the second or third night of the W trek.

Camping here is on raised wooden platforms, with some shelter from bushes and trees.

If staying here, I recommend bringing some string to help with putting up your tent. Although there are hooks in the wooden platform to be used instead of pegs, it can be quite hard to pitch your tent well.

The camping facilities at Francés are good:

  • This campground originally only offered full-board but now allows campers to bring and cook their own food. I don’t know exactly what facilities this means they now have, but there will be an area for those camping to cook their own food.
  • Hot showers
  • A canteen (you pay for food when you make your reservation)

The dome facilities (dorm beds in geodesic domes) at Francés include:

  • Beds in shared dorm rooms
  • A canteen (you pay for food when you make your reservation)

Refugio and Camping Los Cuernos

Two-bed huts in Los Cuernos, Torres del Paine National Park
Los Cuernos even has two-person huts – admittedly at very high prices.
  • Cost for camping with own equipment p/p: $25 USD plus an additional $12 USD if single occupancy*
  • Cost for camping with rented equipment p/p: $70 USD plus an additional $12 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for premium camping with rented equipment p/p: $100 USD plus an additional $20 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for dorm in refugio p/p: $125 USD*
  • Cost for dorm in refugio and half-board p/p: $187 USD
  • Cost for dorm in refugio and full-board p/p: $213 USD
  • Cost for hut for two or three people: $200 USD pp ($160 USD supplement for single person)
  • Cost for half board: $62 USD
  • Cost for full board: $88 USD

*you can cook outside in the camping area if you opt for no meals.

Information about the refugio and camping at Los Cuernos.

Most people stay at Los Cuernos on the second or third night of the W trek, as an alternative to Frances.

Camping here is on raised wooden platforms, with some shelter from bushes and trees.

If staying here, I recommend bringing some string to help with putting up your tent. Although there are hooks in the wooden platform to be used instead of pegs, it can be quite hard to pitch your tent well.

The camping facilities at Los Cuernos are good:

  • This campground originally only offered full-board but now allows campers to bring and cook their own food. I don’t know exactly what facilities this means they now have, but there will be an area for those camping to cook their own food.
  • Hot showers
  • A canteen (you pay for food when you make your camping reservation)

The refugio facilities at Los Cuernos include:

  • Beds in shared dorm rooms
  • Beds in shared domes
  • A large canteen (you pay for food when you make your dormitory reservation)

Refugio and Camping Torre Central and Torre Norte

  • Cost for camping with own equipment p/p: $25 USD plus an additional $12 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for camping with rented equipment p/p: $70 USD plus an additional $12 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for premium camping with rented equipment p/p: $100 USD plus an additional $20 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for dorm in refugio p/p: $125 USD*
  • Cost for dorm in refugio and half-board p/p: $187 USD
  • Cost for dorm in refugio and full-board p/p: $213 USD
  • Cost for half board: $62 USD
  • Cost for full board: $88 USD

*You can cook meals outside in the cooking areas if you choose to self-cater.

Information about Torre Norte refugio and Torre Central refugio and camping.

Most people camp or stay in dorms at Torre Central or in the dorm rooms of Torre Norte on the third or fourth nights of the W trek.

It is situated at the base of the towers and is therefore a good place to leave your big rucksack as you hike up to the towers for the day, however, there is a cost of $5 USD ($3,500 CLP) to do this.

This is also one of the biggest campgrounds in the park, which means there is generally space here – so if you’re struggling to get reservations at Frances, Los Cuernos or El Chileno, consider booking here instead.

It’s also a good place to see a puma! The night I stayed there, we missed one by about a minute that was wandering past the campground (don’t worry, they won’t attack you).

The camping facilities at Torre Central are good:

  • Outdoor tables where you can cook food, plus sinks for washing up
  • Hot showers
  • A canteen (you pay for food when you make your camping reservation)
  • A bar
  • A shop with basic food items

The refugio facilities at Torre Central include:

  • Beds in shared dorm rooms. Rooms are larger, newer, and generally nicer than those in Torre Norte and have central heating.
  • A large canteen (you pay for food when you make your dormitory reservation)
  • A bar

Torre Norte is 100 meters from Torre Central and you have access to the canteen, bar and shop there.

Refugio and Camping El Chileno

Camping in El Chileno on raised wooden platforms. Torres del Paine National Park.
Camping in El Chileno is on raised, wooden platforms.
  • Cost for camping with own equipment p/p: $25 USD plus an additional $12 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for camping with rented equipment p/p: $70 USD plus an additional $12 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for premium camping with rented equipment p/p: $100 USD plus an additional $20 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for dorm in refugio p/p: $125 USD
  • Cost for dorm in refugio and half-board p/p: $187 USD
  • Cost for dorm in refugio and full-board p/p: $213USD
  • Cost for half board: $62 USD
  • Cost for full board: $88 USD

Information about El Chileno refugio and camping.

Most people stay at El Chileno on the third or fourth nights of the W trek. It is situated at the base of the towers, but a couple of hours closer than Torre Central, meaning you can hike from there up to the towers at dawn.

Camping at El Chileno is on raised wooden platforms, with some shelter from bushes and trees.

As with Los Cuenos, if staying at this campground, I recommend bringing some string to help with putting up your tent. Although there are hooks in the wooden platform that can be used instead of pegs, it can be quite hard to pitch your tent well.

The towers of Torres del Paine National Park at dawn
El Chileno is now the closest campsite to the towers and your best option if you want to see them at dawn.

Be aware that there is nowhere to leave your rucksack at this campground; if you plan to head up to the towers, you’re best to do this for dawn, leaving your tent up with your stuff inside.

When you come back down from the towers, you can pack up. Check-out is at 9am.

The camping facilities at El Chileno are good:

  • There are no cooking facilities in El Chileno; you must either bring cold food or something that just requires you to add hot water (which you can request from the refugio) or you should pre-book food from their canteen.
  • Hot showers
  • A canteen (you pay for food when you make your camping reservation)
  • A shop with basic food items

The refugio facilities at El Chileno include:

  • Beds in shared dorm rooms
  • A large canteen (you pay for food when you make your dormitory reservation)

CONAF: Torres

Campamento Torres

This free camping is located just below the base of the towers, around a 45-minute hike to the lake above which they are found. It has space for tents within a wooded area, a small, covered area for cooking, plus toilets and running water from two streams.

However, since the 2017/2018 season, the campsite has been closed. It is closed for the foreseeable future.

Camping reservations for the O Circuit, Torres del Paine

The O Circuit can only be walked in an anti-clockwise direction, starting from the park ranger station at Laguna Amarga.

Hikers queuing up to enter the park at the Laguna Amarga entrance, Torres del Paine National Park
Hikers queuing up to enter the park at the Laguna Amarga entrance.

All of the buses that leave from Puerto Natales enter through the same place, via the hamlet of Torres del Paine, and stop first at Laguna Amarga, where you need to get off for the O Circuit and show your entrance tickets for the park – you must book these in advance on this website and download your QR code when you have internet as there is no signal in the park.

On the O Circuit and the first four/five days before you reach the W trek, accommodation is generally in campsites (either with your own tent or with a tent that you can rent in advance from the campsite), although Refugio and Camping Dickson do have beds in their refugio.

Food is generally not available, although there are a couple of exceptions. You will need to bring all of your food and cooking equipment.

I’ve written all about the equipment you need to pack for the O Circuit and compiled this guide to what food you should take to Torres del Paine so that your rucksack isn’t overly heavy.

Torres del Paine O circuit Map
The route of the O Circuit, which joins the W trek after day four (click and zoom for closer view)

From Laguna Amarga, the campsites on the O Circuit are as followed and ordered by when you’ll reach them (you stay at all of them; note Camping Paso isnow closed):

  1. Camping Serón (paid campsite owned by Las Torres)
  2. Refugio and Camping Dickinson (paid campsite and refugio owned by Vertice Patagonia)
  3. Camping Los Perros (paid campsite owned by Vertice Patagonia)
  4. Camping Paso (free campsite owned by CONAF)* This campsite is closed and you must instead continue to Refugio y Camping Grey.

You then join the W trek heading east:

  1. Refugio and Camping Grey (paid campsite and refugio owned by Vertice Patagonia)
  2. Refugio and Camping Paine Grande (paid campsite and refugio owned by Vertice Patagonia)
  3. Camping Italiano (free campsite owned by CONAF)* This camping is closed
  4. Camping and Domes Francés (paid campsite and domes owned by Las Torres)
  5. Refugio and Camping Los Cuernos (paid campsite and refugio owned by Las Torres)
  6. Refugio and Camping Torres Central/Norte (paid campsite and refugio owned by Las Torres)
  7. Refugio and Camping El Chileno (paid campsite and refugio owned by Las Torres)
  8. Camping Torres (free campsite owned by CONAF)* This camping is closed

*All of the CONAF campgrounds are closed for the foreseeable future.

What months can you trek the O Circuit?

The official opening date of the O Circuit entirely depends on when CONAF decide to open the trail. This normally happens in November, with the hiking season continuing until the end of March and sometimes into April.

During the low season (1st of April until 31st of October), the O Circuit is closed.

Hiking the O Circuit anti-clockwise

As of a few years back, you can only hike the O Circuit anticlockwise. This means getting off the bus at Laguna Amarga and hiking or taking the 15-minute shuttle minibus ($4,000 CLP ($6 USD)) operated by Hotel Las Torres to Refugio and Camping Torres Central/Norte.

After you’ve hiked the loop around the back of the Cordillera Paine, you join the W trek at Refugio and Camping Grey.

For more information about hiking this trail, don’t miss our complete guide to the Torres del Paine O Circuit, as well as the 14 things you need to know before starting the O Circuit.

How to make camping reservations for the O Circuit

Again, booking camping in Torres del Paine isn’t too difficult, but you do need to understand the O Circuit route and the options available to you.

If you want to save time: The website Torres Hike shows you the availability of accommodation and allows you to book it directly through them, rather than having to go via the Vertice Patagonia, Las Torres and CONAF websites. All you need to do is plug in your dates and it’ll show you which campgrounds and refugios are available – saving you LOTS of time. You can then book directly with Torres Hike rather than with both companies.

Camping in Torres del Paine National Park along the O Circuit.
Camping in Torres del Paine and hiking the O Circuit means you need to take cooking equipment.

Las Torres: Camping Serón

To make a Torres del Paine camping reservation or to book a dorm reservation in a refugio with Las Torres (formerly known as Fantastico Sur) you need to follow this link to the booking page on their website.

Las Torres are pretty good at getting back to queries and I’ve also found that they are very fast at responding through the chat box option on their website.

If you’re struggling to make reservations, you can also contact them via email at
[email protected]. They speak good English, too.

They also have an office in Puerto Natales located at: Manuel Bulnes 83, Puerto Natales (tel. 61/2614 184).

Rates 2022/2023 for camping and dining at Las Torres:

Cost of staying in a refugio in Camping and Refugio Paine Grande, Torres del Paine National Park 2022/2023
Prices for camping and camping equipment rental in Refugio and Camping Paine Grande, Torres del Paine National Park 2022-2023
Cost of full-board, half-board and meals in Camping and Refugio Paine Grande, Torres del Paine National Park 2022/2023

Camping Serón

Camping Seron, the first campsite along the Torres del Paine O Circuit.
Pitched up in Camping Seron, the first campsite along the O Circuit.
  • Cost for camping with own equipment p/p: $25 USD plus an additional $12 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for camping with rented equipment p/p: $70 USD plus an additional $12 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for premium camping with rented equipment p/p: $100 USD plus an additional $20 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for camping with own equipment p/p and full-board: $87 USD plus an additional $12 USD if single occupancy
  • Cost for camping with own equipment p/p and half-board: $113 USD plus an additional $12 USD if single occupancy

Get information about Camping Serón here.

Camping Serón is the first campground on the O Circuit and normally the place where people stay on their first night in the park.

There is only camping possible here and it comprises a huge, grassy area with views of the eastern side of the mountain range.

Camping Serón has reasonable facilities:

  • A couple of covered areas for cooking food
  • Toilets
  • Showers with hot water (although I don’t think they have hot water all of the time)
  • A shop with basic food essentials and sometimes camping gas
  • A small canteen

Vertice Patagonia: Dickinson and Los Perros

To make a Torres del Paine camping reservation or to book a dorm reservation in a refugio with Vertice Patagonia you need to follow this link to the booking page on their website.

They have changed their booking system from last year. Firstly, you need to select “Another” or “Otro” in the Passenger/Pasajero section of the first booking window, and select USD (because you are a foreigner and not a Chilean resident).

Then, you need to select “Circuito Maczio Paine” on the second window:

Vertice Patagonia camping reservations
The booking window on the Vertice Patagonia website. It’s also available in English.

You can no longer just book one of their campgrounds; instead, you have to book them in groups e.g. Dickson, Los Perros, Grey, and Paine Grande.

Rates 2022/2023 for camping at Vertice Patagonia:

Note these prices are correct for Dickinson, Los Perros, and Grey; prices for Paine Grande are shown above at the beginning of the section about camping reservations for the W trek.

Cost of staying in a refugio in Camping and Refugio Dickson, Torres del Paine National Park 2022/2023
Prices for camping and camping equipment rental in Refugio and Camping Dickson, Torres del Paine National Park 2022-2023
Cost of full-board, half-board and meals in Camping and Refugio Dickson, Torres del Paine National Park 2022/2023

Refugio and Camping Dickinson

Camping Dickson, camping in Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia
Camping Dickson doesn’t have very much protection from the wind, but the views of the back of the Cordillera Paine are beautiful in the morning.
  • Cost for camping with own equipment p/p: $10 USD
  • Cost for camping with rented equipment p/p: (based on two sharing) $58 USD (additional $16 USD if single occupancy)
  • Cost for dorm in refugio with your own sleeping bag: $40 USD
  • Cost for dorm in refugio without your own sleeping bag: $92 USD
  • Cost for dorm in refugio (with your own sleeping bag) and half-board: $78 USD
  • Cost for dorm in refugio (with your own sleeping bag) and full-board: $128 USD
  • Cost for half board: $38 USD
  • Cost for full board: $88 USD

Get information about Refugio and Camping Dickson here.

Refugio and Camping Dickson is the second campground on the O Circuit and normally the place where people stay on their second night in the park.

There is camping and a small refugio here and it’s set in a beautiful location in the horseshoe floodplains of where Lago Dickson becomes the Río Paine.

You can even see hanging glaciers above the lake if you wander through the trees at the back of the campground.

Camping Dickson has reasonable facilities:

  • A large covered area for cooking food
  • Picnic benches dotted across the site (you are not allowed to cook food at these)
  • Toilets
  • Showers with hot water (limited hours)
  • A shop with basic food essentials
  • A small canteen (you pay for food when you make your camping reservation)

The refugio facilities at Dickson include:

  • Beds in shared dorm rooms with or without bed clothes (although take a sleeping bag as the price is double if you want to have bedclothes included)
  • A small canteen (you pay for food when you make your dormitory reservation)

Camping Los Perros

Camping Los Perros, the O Circuit, Torres del Paine National Park.
Camping Los Perros is a simple campsite that’s tucked into a forest.
  • Cost for camping with own equipment p/p: $10 USD
  • Cost for camping with rented equipment p/p: (based on two sharing) $58 USD (additional $16 USD if single occupancy)
  • Cost for full board: $61 USD

Get information about Camping Los Perros here.

Set in the woods below the John Gardner Pass, Camping Los Perros is a small campground with very basic facilities.

It is normally where people stay on the third night of hiking the O Circuit.

Camping Los Perros has basic facilities:

  • A hut for cooking food (it also has charging points for your electrical items)
  • Toilets
  • Showers with cold water
  • A canteen offering only full board (you pay for food when you make your dormitory reservation)

CONAF: Paso

CONAF has one free campground on the first half of the O Circuit.

Their online booking system is now much easier than it was for last season. You just need to click on the above link, put in your dates (you will need to do this twice if you want to book more than one campsite with CONAF) and it will show availability and allow you to insert your details to make the reservation. It’s all in English, too!

Camping Paso

  • Cost for camping with own equipment p/p: Free*

Located a few kilometers below the John Gardner Pass, the free campground Paso is sometimes used by hikers on the fourth night of hiking the O Circuit, although there is generally still time (if you have the energy left) to continue on to Refugio and Camping Grey (another 10 kilometers away) in the same day.

The facilities here are very, very basic and the toilet itself is probably enough to put some people off. It’s also a very small area with only a limited number of spots, so camping gets booked up very quickly.

Camping Paso has basic facilities:

  • A three-walled shelter where you can prepare food
  • One toilet

Note that this campsite is only open November through April.

*This CONAF campground is closed for the foreseeable future.

The rest of the O Circuit

From here, you join the W trek and so the advice regarding booking the different campgrounds follows the information indicated above (although you’ll get to Refugio and Camping Grey before Refugio and Camping Paine Grande).

General recommendations for booking camping in Torres del Paine

Book well in advance

During the 2022/2023, reservations were secured months in advance, particularly for December, January, and February.

However, people reported being able to get reservations last minute during these months, so it’s worth checking back in to see if reservations have opened up.

The trick is to book your dates as soon as possible to avoid disappointment. If you can’t find space, you can try booking with our local partner, Chile Nativo, who offer a 5% discount to Worldly Adventurer readers (use “Worldly Adventurer” in the referral discount box to secure this) and may have space on their self-guided W trek tour.

Bring your passport and PDI form

Prices on the Las Torres and Vertice Patagonia websites are quoted in USD and this price only applies if you are a foreigner who has spent fewer than 60 consecutive days in Chile (so it’s fine if you’re been out to Argentina and back in again).

However, to prove this, they may want to see your passport and the PDI migration slip you were given when you entered the country.

Bring both – just remember to put them in a Ziploc plastic bag so that they are protected from the rain (passports are not accepted for travel if they suffer water damage!).

Print out your reservations

Print out your reservation confirmations for your accommodation in Torres del Paine and take them with you. You also need to make your reservation for the national park here and bring your QR code (you will not have internet signal at Laguna Amarga where you enter the national park).

Along the W, campgrounds have internet access and a list of who is expected to be at each campground each night.

Along the O Circuit, this is not the case and there have been cases where people have been sent back the way they came because they couldn’t prove that they had a reservation at a campground further along the trek.

I also heard that they might be checking camping reservations when you buy your ticket at Laguna Amarga and they won’t allow you to enter the park if you can’t evidence them.

You can also download them to your phone, just make sure that you have enough battery (I recommend bringing a battery pack: check them out on Amazon or REI) so that you can show them when required.

For more information, see my guide to what you should pack for hiking in Torres del Paine.

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Find out everything you need to know about reserving campsites in Torres del Paine National Park with this 5,000-word guide covering all of the campsites and refugios for the W trek and the O Circuit. #patagonia #torresdelpaine #hiking #southamerica #travel #adventure #worldlyadventurer

Rollie

Sunday 3rd of December 2023

From what I can see, both Latam and Sky Air seem to have only one flight per day leaving Puerto Natales bound for Santiago. Meaning if that flight gets cancelled, you would have to wait until the next day to fly. In your experience, is airline service out of Natales generally reliable, or is it advisable to take a bus to Punta Arenas and fly from there? Thank you!

Maria

Wednesday 18th of October 2023

Hi Steph, I’m planning to visit November 2024. What month do you recommend reserving campsites for the W trek?

Thanks in advance! Your articles are so informative and helpful!

Maria

Steph Dyson

Thursday 23rd of November 2023

Hi Maria, reservations normally open in June/July time. If you sign up to Torres Hikes' email list, they generally send an email when reservations have opened. Steph

Anna

Monday 16th of October 2023

Hi! We are going to Patagonia in November and would like to start th O Trek around November 6/7th.

Do you habe any idea if it is open? I heard there was more snow than expected?

Thank you for your tips!!

Best, Anna

Steph Dyson

Thursday 23rd of November 2023

Hi Anna, sorry I didn't get to this question quicker. Yes, the O is open in November. You can always email CONAF to find out information about the state of parks, too. Steph

Andrea

Tuesday 8th of August 2023

Oh gosh, the booking via Vertice website is so complicated. Apparently, the css code of the website is broken and I can’t proceed any further then the first page of reservation. I’m trying to book Grey and Paine Grande campsites for late January, and I have already paid the other 2 campsites from Las Torres…. But Vertice website is not working and they are not replying to emails.

Apart from that, I wished to say that your blog is a true gem for us adventures that don’t want to rely on a tour. I discovered you from the podcast! Thank you very much!

Steph Dyson

Wednesday 20th of September 2023

Hi Andrea, sorry for the delay in responding. I hope you managed to sort it out! Steph

Georgios Maskaleris

Tuesday 18th of July 2023

Hi Steph and thanks for your helpful tips. Today I tried to book Grey and Paine Grande with Torreshike but eventually, they stopped the process before payment (reservations and possible options were already approved), stating that Vertice company cannot handle the booking procedure properly. What do you suggest me to do?

Steph Dyson

Wednesday 20th of September 2023

Hi Georgios, there were some issues with Vertice's booking system but is should be sorted now. Steph