On my last trip along the Carretera Austral in 2016, I made it as far as the azure waters of Lago General Carrera in the Aysén Region of Chile. Few people have heard of this lake; but it’s the location of the almost fantastical, swirling-blue coloured Cavernas Marmoles or Marble Caves, easily visited in a speedboat from […]
On the Community-Run Coffee Trail in Peru
I hold the coffee beans in my hands, their parchment skin still on, like little tissue paper jackets or the discarded chrysalis of a transformed caterpillar. There is something very fragile about them in this form. I’m told that what I’m holding in my hand has a 73g yield and is worth 6 soles 40 […]
Getting Back to Basics at Estancia La Peninsula
It’s been an awfully long time since I was last on horseback – over twenty years to be precise. But I feel surprisingly in control of Dali, my stead for a day of horse riding in the wilds of Patagonia. According to Marco, one of the ranch hands at Estancia La Península, there’s a basic […]
The Navimag Ferry: The Slow Route to Puerto Natales
By day three, my long hours of standing at the bow finally pay off. The rain clears suddenly and unexpectedly; the clouds creep away from the horizon to reveal the green-fringed edges of a multitude of fjords, extending far into the distance. I’m on the Navimag ferry from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales, a journey […]
Should You Visit Kuélap in 2018?
I’ll admit to not being a huge follower of travel lists published by the big travel companies (even if I’ve contributed to them over the past few years). Although they can be a great way of highlighting truly fascinating travel destinations that would otherwise get overlooked, they can also help to perpetuate the challenges that […]
Going Far Beyond The Beaten Trail: My Favourite Northern Peru Tours
Stood on top of the 1000-year-old Huaca las Ventanas (Temple of Windows), just 40km from Chiclayo in northern Peru, I feel quite the thrill. Aside from my guides, I am alone. Every way I turn, views of other pyramids, weathered by the years, are visible from our vantage point in the middle of the Santuario […]
Two Months Backpacking in Peru: A World Away from Cusco
When anyone ever asks me which are my favourite countries that I’ve lived in during my three years in South America, my response has always been the same: Bolivia and Chile. The former for its seeming limitless wells of indigenous culture, coupled with a certain bat-shit craziness that just really appeals. The latter for its […]
The Ultimate Chile Itinerary For Ten Days or Two Weeks
With the piercing peaks of the Andes prominent in the north, glacier-riddled national parks of the south and fertile, wine-growing valleys of the centre, it’s fair to say that Chile has jaw-dropping geographical diversity oozing from every pore. Which is why planning a Chile itinerary for ten days or more of travel might seem a […]
12 of the Best Books About South America to Add to Your Reading List
There’s no better way for preparing for a trip abroad (or merely satisfying your worldly curiosity) than with a good list of reading material. Over the past three years, I’ve had my nose in a healthy selection of books set in South America, both fiction and non-fiction to help me get to grips with life, […]
10 Reasons Why Chile is 2018’s Top Travel Destination
It’s no secret that I’m deeply in love with my adopted homeland and was pleased – if not hugely surprised – to see it crown Lonely Planet’s list of top global travel destinations for 2018. It’s fair to say that few South American countries can compete with Chile when it comes to its epic diversity […]
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